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There are no such thing as ghosts...(15/08/2015)

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It may not be the most advisable thing to do owling on the first night of the Hungry Ghost Month but we have been planning and delaying this trip to Pedu in the wild interiors of Kedah state for weeks. The drive from Penang takes about 3 hours and in order to reach our destination in time for some pre-dawn owling, we had to leave the comforts of our bed at around one in the morning! As we were driving along the access road at near the shoreline of Pedu Lake in search of our nocturnal quarries, we noticed strange sounds coming out from the engine of my car. We birders sometimes get so carried away with our birding that we even lose perspective of things. So, we just pushed on as the thrill of the hunt was at its climax.

When we heard the call of not one but two Blyth's Frogmouths, any vehicular concerns momentarily vanished. Of the 3 species of frogmouths that occur here in Peninsular Malaysia, the Blyth's Frogmouth is the easiest to see. Or so they say. In all my years of birding, I have heard it on several occasions but not once did it show itself to me. My companions, Choo Eng and Hor Kee on the other hand, have seen this species before. So, I find it quite appropriate that this species finally decided to show itself to me tonight, of all nights, because the call of this nocturnal creature is best described to be not unlike the wailing of a banshee.


It was a memorable encounter. This lifer was perched on an exposed perch and gave us prolonged views. The distance hampered any efforts of a really good photo but who cares. He was a handsome specimen and the long wait for this moment only compounded my excitement and joy. His mate decided to join him and alighted on a perch behind him. We only had a brief view of her before she disappeared into the darkness with her mate. Our target nightbirds for this trip included the Large Frogmouth as well but if there was any sense of disappointment about missing the latter, it was fully compensated by the former's noteworthy performance. 


When morning came, it was time to look for another set of target birds. Pedu area used to have three resorts along the edge of the lake but are no longer in operation. The whole area is now rather isolated with the main access road devoid of vehicles most of time and that makes it very ideal for birding.



The Chestnut-necklaced Partridge provided a very good reason for a return trip to this locality as the closest we ever came to locating this elusive game bird was a Red Junglefowl flushed from its night time roost. At the time of writing, Dave managed to see and photograph the partridges exactly where we were searching for them a few days after our trip. I think envy is the word I should use right now. As expected, not even a peep from the near-mythical Giant Pitta although we managed to record both the Hooded and Blue-winged Pitta this time.

The wet and gloomy weather made photography rather challenging. But I had to try my best to obtain at least one photo that looked slightly like the Thick-billed Spiderhunter that was foraging at the canopy levels. This was my third ever sighting of this the rarest of all the spiderhunters in Peninsular Malaysia and not even the persistent light drizzle and horrid lighting could dampen our spirits.


We decided to venture out to more open areas along the main road that cuts through some pristine rainforest do to some birding by car due to the less than desirable weather. Some of the views from here are simply spectacular.



Unfortunately, human beings have a tendency to destroy all things beautiful and spectacular that Mother Nature has to offer. And to make things worse, this is a failed or abandoned agricultural project. It takes like forever for a forest to become a forest but it only takes one moronic decision to destroy it and sometimes, even for no reason at all.


However, the presence of hornbills meant that there is still enough unspoiled wilderness in the vicinity for them to roam and flourish. We had an amazing haul of hornbills today and recorded the Oriental Pied, Black, Great and Rhinoceros Hornbills. The best hornbill encounter was undoubtedly a pair of Plain-pouched Hornbills that was flying relatively low over the forest canopy. This nomadic species is rarely encountered anywhere else in the country except for the western and central northern regions of the peninsular at this time of the year.


I have not had the privilege or the good fortune to witness this but the Plain-pouched Hornbills often travel in huge flocks and flocks numbering up to the thousands is not unknown. This natural phenomenon will cease to occur if moronic decisions persist to occur.


This young Collared Kingfisher is looking somewhat out of place so far inland. Although the coastal areas are its preferred habitat choice, there will be those that prefer a life less ordinary - just like people.


Grey Wagtails are usually one of the first to arrive at their wintering grounds in the tropics. Quite a few were encountered along the main road and were not particularly pleased with our presence.


With the noon hour approaching, we finally decided to seriously find the source of the strange sounds coming out of my car at low speed. To our horror, Choo Eng found that the engine oil almost depleted. While trying to figure it out what happen, we came to few possibilities ranging from leakage to theft.

Anyway, to make a long story short, we managed to safely make our way to the nearest town and topped up the engine oil. We cut the trip short as we do not want to take any chances of my car breaking down in the middle of nowhere. We did make a short stop along the way back at Lata Mengkaung. We discovered a fruiting Macaranga Tree (thanks to Hor Kee for the identification of the tree) at the car park area with a couple of bird speciespatronising the tree. The highlight of the visit would be the lone Cream-coloured Giant-Squirrel that was gorging on the fruits as well. It was so preoccupied with the feast that it forgone its usual elusive and shy nature and allowed a prolonged and close observation.


'Food drunk' as Choo Eng so eloquently put it...


A quick check on my car's engine oil level at the car park revealed that the level did go down. Not even one bit. We then decided to head to the empty plot of land in Kulim Hi-Tech Park for another go at the elusive Small Buttonquail. We managed a few short glimpses of the Buttonquail, much to Hor Kee's delight, but without any images to show - again. During our search, we did come across a few roosting Savanna Nightjars and I cannot help but to be amazed at how similar a roosting nightjar looks like a rock when seen without any optical aid.



We Chinese believe that we should avoid offending the visitors from the supernatural realm that are set free in our world during the Hungry Ghost Month. And to be extra cautious as bad things tend to happen in this period of time also. My birding endeavours often take me to the most isolated and wildest areas and that is why my better half is not too thrill whenever I go birding during this "month". Did our intrusion into the forest in the dead of night offended something from the other side thus resulting in my car's mysteriously malfunction? I guess some things are better left unanswered...

The mythical one...

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My subsequent trips to Pedu in Kedah came much sooner than I had anticipated. So, exactly one week after our last outing to this location, I traveled once again into one of the remotest parts of northern Peninsular Malaysia and was greeted by a pair of Oriental Pied Hornbills upon arrival. 


The Hooded Pitta and Diard's Trogon are quite regular at this birding site but the birds provided only glimpses of their true splendour so far. This lone Hairy-backed Bulbul that was foraging near the access road was slightly more obliging. Well, at least I managed a single shot before it vanished back into the forest.


Some movement in the gloomy middle storey of the forest did gain our immediate attention and it turned out to be Buff-necked Woodpecker.


Just as I was about to get down to some serious birding with the woodpecker, I picked out a faint but distinct whistle. A whistle that will make even the most experienced birder weak in the knees andnauseous. Hor Kee heard it too andsignalled to me. The mythical Giant Pitta finally revealed its presence and I now have the chance to photograph the biggest and shyest of all the Malaysian pittas. We trekked around that patch of forest and could pinpoint that the call was coming from a shallow ravine. But one does not simply trek into the forest and expect to see the Giant Pitta. It is no ordinary bird. It is a bird which legends are made of.

After an hour-long game of hide-and-seek around that particular spot, it seemed that I was not going to get my photos and Hor Kee, his lifer. But the hypnotic mournful whistle had us spellbound. Desperate times calls for desperate measures. We decided to split up and flank the pitta. At least this way, one of us stood a good chance of actually seeing it. Hor Kee saw it first and it was a superb male bird. I saw him minutes later but both of us never had the chance to even lift up our cameras. But we saw him. The mythical Giant Pitta and a male bird I might add. I am unable to describe the moment when I put my bins on his blue back and black crown just before he disappeared into the vegetation. It is beyond words. There are times in your life when something truly extraordinary takes place that it leaves you astounded and unsure if you are awake or dreaming. Well, this Giant Pitta encounter is certainly one of them.

The Raffles's Malkoha is a dwarf compared to all its much larger relatives. But that only makes it so much more adorable and the colours of the male bird, like this one, are quite remarkable to say the least. This species frequents the canopy levels as well and good views are hard to come by. This encounter was during my third visit to the forest of Pedu. Yes, I tried for the Giant Pitta again the following week. And no, I did not get another chance - as I half expected. When a bird has obtained mythical status, I guess one is given just so many chances to encounter it in a lifetime. Last week's sighting was my third in 25 years. Now, I fear that I may have run out of chances to see this legendary bird ever again.



I was quite pleased to see the White-rumped Shama doing relatively well here unlike other forests in Kedah where it is being trapped to extinction. This young bird was very inquisitive and came quite close to our position. Maybe it has not learned to be wary of humans yet. I may not have that many photos to show for the two trips to Pedu but it has been an excellent experience. I am not sure why I did not visit this area that frequently in the past but the results from these three consecutive trips certainly changed my perception of this site. I got a Giant Pitta here for crying out loud.

A fruitful trip (06/09/2015)

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I waited for my guest at the hotel lobby, as usual before the break of dawn, and right on the dot, Paul emerged and greeted me with a warm smile. As soon as he got into my car, he gave me a calendar that he made using all his images and I was really impressed by the quality of the images. Then it dawned on me. He must be expecting to obtain images like these during our tour as well. One of the things we bird guides fear the most is not being able to meet the client's expectations. The man had a stunning photo of a Resplendent Quetzal on the front cover for God's sake. It certainly looked like I have my work cut out for me this time. Fortunately, I had something up my sleeves and it was a fruiting tree in full bloom at the Recreational Forest of Sungai Sedim in Kedah. Upon our arrival, the tree was already a centre of bird activity.


The sun was a late riser today and that made photography a little more difficult. However, despite the setback, the birds were very confiding and that ease our efforts to capture their images. The first species to attract our attention was this lone Buff-vented Bulbul.


There were plenty of other bulbuls and flowerpeckers on the tree but they were momentarily pushed aside when a flock of Sooty Barbets came crashing through the forest canopy and started devouring the little red fruits.


The Sooty Barbet, formerly known as the Brown Barbet, is the only barbet in Malaysia that does not even have a trace of green on its plumage. Neither does it have the typical persistent and loud call of most barbets. In fact, it squeaks like a mouse and the chubby appearance makes it so adorable.


Being a habitant of the highest canopies, good views are often difficult to obtain. A fruiting tree like this is the only time when you are able to observe and photograph this barbet at such close proximity.


The flock of barbets did not stay for long and returned back to the cover of the forest soon after. And we started to focus back on the bulbuls again and they have certainly increased in numbers. The Red-eyed Bulbul is one of the commonest bulbul species at this locality. So, it was no surprise to find it feasting on the tree.


The Spectacled Bulbul is almost identical to the Red-eyed Bulbul. A thin yellow eye ring, from which its name is derived, is one of the best field identification marks to differentiate it from the latter.


Sneaking along the lower branches of the tree was a flock of Hairy-backed Bulbuls. Their behaviour is more like a babbler than a bulbul and they were gone in an instance. This is the only shot that I have to show for the encounter.


On the other hand, the Finsch's Bulbul was very cooperative and stood right out in the open after having had its fill of fruits. Although it does slightly resemble the commoner Hairy-backed Bulbul, it behaves very much like a typical Bulbul and that alone will easily separate the two species.


Being more robust than all the other bulbuls present, the Grey-cheeked Bulbul gets its way most of time. And today, it is more confiding than usual - much to our delight. The puffy white throat and the crested look do wonders to its aesthetic appeal and I found it hard to pull myself away from its charm.



It will have to take something exceptional to ignore the Grey-cheeked Bulbul and the Scaly-breasted Bulbul is undoubtedly something exceptional. One of the most stunning bulbuls of the Malaysian forest, its presence anywhere is simply electrifying.


I just love the intricate patterns on the breast of this bird. Reminds me of those racy lacy attires adorned by the fairer sex and are made to excite and arouse.


Once the effect of the fruiting tree started to wear off, we decided that it was finally time to actually go into the forest. The closest thing to a Quetzal here in Malaysia is the trogons. Although not exactly in the same league, the male Scarlet-rumped Trogon is no pushover in terms of appeal and charisma. And the bright red colour of his plumage will just melt your heart away.


A shift of position revealed his namesake - the red-coloured rump. This particular individual is also one of the most confiding that I have encountered in a long time. Maybe the distance between us was quite reasonable and he did not feel at all. That's a good boy…


A lone Crested Jay gave us no chance whatsoever of capturing any images as it swiftly move through the middle storey of the forest. The encounter with a family of Orange-backed Woodpecker was no much better but I did manage to capture a few records shots. Although, the woodpecker family was quite close and confiding, the dense vegetation and challenging lighting conditions got the better of our photographic attempts.



This family of Grey-and-buff Woodpeckers, on the other hand, was being plain difficult. This adorable species has always been in my most wanted list of birds to photograph but I never had the privilege to do so. I was on the brink of breaking into tears when I had the woodpeckers right in front of me but unfortunately, hidden among dense vegetation. This is a young male judging from the pale colours on his crest.


The adult male did hop onto an exposed perch momentarily but his constant movement killed my one only unobstructed shot for the whole encounter.


We had a last look at the fruiting tree before we moved on to the next locality of our tour. This Grey-bellied was relatively close but the harsh midday lighting was a real hindrance. Including the Cream-vented and Streaked Bulbul, we recorded more than ten different species of bulbuls at this tree today.


A few flowerpeckers were also at the fruiting tree throughout our time there but none of them wanted to be photographed. This handsome male Orange-bellied Flowerpecker was the only exception.


Paul is an American who now spends most of his time in Costa Rica and is relatively new to the birds of this region. He has been to Borneo once and that is about it. He made a request that he wanted to photograph a White-throated Kingfisher on a natural perch. He has seen this species before but was never given much chance to capture its image. This is not the first time a foreign guest has expressed interest in this common species. Local birders have taken this kingfisher for granted due to its abundance but its colours, and no shortage of attitude either, can certainly be quite intriguing to birders who are not familiar with it. It is just like me gawking at Galahs in Australia. This parrot is common even in the suburbs but to me, the sight of such a striking parrot strolling on someone's lawn is unbelievable. Anyway, we managed to find one that was exceptionally confiding. And it was on a natural perch. Hallelujah...


Our next destination was the swampforest of Air Hitam Dalam in mainland Penang. However, things were slower than usual than this birding hotspot. But we enjoyed a few good encounters including one that even brought a grown man to his knees...



This splendid male Mangrove Blue Flycatcher was the highlight of the visit here. He was sitting smugly among the undergrowth next to the boardwalk and we had no choice but to lower our stance for a better image. Judging from the image, I feel that it was worth the effort. So despite the initial concern of not being able to rise to the occasion, the tour ended on a high note and Paul was a very happy man at the end of the day. 

My Bornean birding adventure - Day 1 & 2 (13-16/09/2015)

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Borneo is one of the wildest regions in Southeast Asia and nothing short of a birding paradise. It is one of life's great mysteries why I have not set foot in Borneo before. An invitation by Nigel to join him and his brother Jimmy for a 4-day birding trip to Kinabalu Park in Sabah changed all that. So, after all these years, the Penang Birder is finally going to East Malaysia. This renowned birding site has the most Bornean endemics and from what I have gathered, not much effort is required to see some of them. In short, we were in for one hell of a birding adventure. As it was my maiden trip to this side of Malaysia, I had to do some homework in preparation for the trip. I am faced with the issue of locating and identifying about 50 species of birds that does not occur here in the peninsular. Age must be catching with me as I found it hard tomemorise the names, field identification marks and calls of these would-be lifers. It has been a very long time since I last felt stress before a birding trip within Malaysia and it is no thanks to the twitcher in me. I seek advice from Dave and Hor Kee because unlike yours truly, they have been there before. Dave was especially helpful as he regularly conduct tours to Borneo. And with some additional help from our friend, Google, Nigel and I carefully planned out the trip and hoped for good weather (it has been raining quite frequently in the afternoons of late).

From the airport, our first stop was the Rafflesia Forest Reserve which was about the halfway point of our 3-hour car journey to Kinabalu Park. Randy, our Sabah contact and driver for the trip, did his best to provide a comfortable journey despite having to put up with three occasionally demanding and eccentric birders. Well, maybe just one occasionally demanding and eccentric twitcher. Everyone is familiar with the term first impressions last. Well, the first bird we photographed for our trip to Borneo was this exquisite but extremely confiding Bornean race of the Ashy Drongo hawking for insects near the entrance to the reserve. The trip was certainly off to a fantastic start.


From then on, the lifer and endemic flood gates opened for all three of us. I was like a kid in a candy store. Strange and new bird calls filled my senses. Every single bird that decided to show up had to be scrutinised. I was torn between lifting my camera and my binos. Bornean Treepies, Brown Barbets, Bornean Barbet, Black-capped White-eyes, Bornean Leafbirds and others that I must surely have missed gave us the kind of welcome every birder dreams of. Every single one a lifer but unfortunately, none of them made their way to my camera's SD card. All except for the Chestnut-hooded Laughingthrush, that is. A split from the Chestnut-capped Laughingthrush of the peninsular, it is now a full species and a Bornean endemic. Apart from the head plumage, the two species are almost identical both in appearance and behaviour.


In Borneo, it gets dark an hour earlier than in the peninsular and we had to wrapped things up at the Rafflesia Forest Reserve earlier than expected. We finally reached Kinabalu Park a couple of hours later and it was an early night for us in order to prepare ourselves for a very early start tomorrow. Yes, it gets bright about an hour earlier – due compensation the shorter evenings. Kinabalu Park is made up of a network of well-marked forest trails and with a main access road, the Power Station Road that runs from the Park HQ to the Timpohon Gate which is the starting point of the trail that leads to the summit Mount Kinabalu. This spectacle of nature is the tallest mountain in Malaysia and stands over 4,000 meters above sea level.



And the sceneries here are simply spectacular. Majestic hills and pristine forests as far as the eye can see...




We arrived at the Timpohon Gate slightly after dawn and before we could even get ourselves ready, we were greeted by a wave of colours and splendour. Kinabalu Park was living up to its reputation as one of the premier birding sites in Borneo.


The Indigo Flycatcher was the first to capture our undivided attention. Despite the fact that it is a commonly encountered species here, I did not get to enjoy much good photographic opportunities with it.



A small bird wave brought in some familiar species. The White-throated Fantail is quite common here just like in most montane sites in Peninsular Malaysia.


I never had much luck with the Snowy-browed Flycatcher back in the peninsular. The presence of a male bird in the wave did not go unnoticed - naturally. I was not satisfied with the images that I have obtained and I should have tried harder but I was too easily distracted. The avian sights and sights were truly incredible. I was in birding heaven.


Yellow-breasted Warblers are quite abundant in Kinabalu Park and almost every birdwave we encountered throughout our stay here had at least a couple of these adorable birds. However, their minute size and hyperactive nature make them a nightmare for photography.


A short fruiting bush had a Golden-naped Barbet under its spell. The barbet gorged on the fruits just meters away from our position and did not seem to mind our intrusion. Barbets are usually birds of the canopy levels. Good fortune presented us with this encounter at such close range. By now, I was truly smitten the natural beauty of Borneo.




Mountainous roads are a favourite haunt for migratory Grey Wagtails. This one was seen foraging in the compound of the power station at the gate. Although I regular encounter this species back in the peninsular, I could not resist taking a few shots as it was more confiding than usual.


Once the bird activity dropped a notch, we did become 'normal' tourists - for a while anyway...



I was glad that we had Randy with us on this trip. Without him chauffeuring us around, we could not have covered so much of the park and Sabah as well. As we slowly birded down the access road, Randy drove down to the Park HQ for some shut eye. But he is always just a phone call away.


However, sleep was the last thing on my mind as I started tofamiliarise myself with the birds that find sanctuary in this World Heritage Site. A little brown job that was scurrying among the undergrowth tested my identification skills. With a little perseverance and pleading, the bird did revealed more of itself gradually. When it started to call, I was finally sure of its identification. It was a Sunda Bush-Warbler and it made sure that we do not forget this encounter.



It may not be much of a looker but it was certainly full of personality and charm. The dim lighting of the undergrowth was a hindrance to our photographic efforts although the subject was confiding and willing.



I am always amazed at the fact of how all those wildlife researchers are able to differentiate individuals of the same species even when they are not seen together. For example, individual lions in a pride are named and identified with utmost certainty but they look identical to me. Well, we came across a second Sunda Bush-Warbler. I could tell it was a different bird with ease and confidence this time just by looking at the legs...


The Flavescent Bulbul has an uncanny resemblance to the much commoner Yellow-vented Bulbul. If not for my knowledge of this Bornean endemic's existence, I could have easily passed it off as the latter and that would have cost me a lifer.


Anyway, it certainly made its presence felt with constantvocalisation. The call is quite different from the Yellow-vented Bulbul and is one of the factors that made me realise what it was in the first place.


Small and active birds can be a real pain in the neck - literally. Following their movement, regardless with a camera or binos, can really test how dedicated a birder you are. But if all the neck straining can result in a good photo of another Bornean endemic, then it is worth all the effort. The Black-capped White-eye is not uncommon and we have encountered it on several occasions but this is the only decent image I could obtain in the end.


As the name implies, the Mountain Leaf-Warbler calls the mountains of both Peninsular and East Malaysia its home. The strikingly-marked pattern on the head makes identification rather straightforward, which is often not the case for a leaf warbler. I am quite please with how this image turned out despite the torturous pace it put me through to obtain it.


An unfamiliar Drongo was present during one of the birdwaves as we were making our way down to the Park HQ. Upon further scrutiny, we turned out to be a Hair-crested Drongo - another lifer. Although it is not an endemic, it was an exciting record nevertheless.


A small flock of dark, largish birds were making quite a ruckus along the forest edge could be nothing else but Laughingthrushes. I could hardly control my composure when the birds appeared to be unperturbed by my presence. When I finally obtained a good look, the identification wasunmistakeable. They were Sunda Laughingthrushes and I was quivering with excitement.


Inquisitive and comical, I was transfixed on the movement of the flock as they foraged for food along the lower storey of the forest. Nothing was able to draw my attention away. Not even a small birdwave that was going on in the canopy level.



We spent hours trekking along the forest trails as well. Kinabalu Park has two endemic partridges and hitting the trails is your best bet to get them. They were high in my most wanted list and we cameagonisingly close on a few occasions. The partridges were so close that their calls were deafening. We tried our best but just we just could not even catch a glimpse of these beautiful gamebirds. Other than that, the trails were surprisingly quiet. What a stark contrast from the morning session. Dave did mention that the afternoons could be quiet but I did not expect it to be this quiet. A flock of Grey-throated Babblers, a common species even in my home state of Penang, brought only temporary relief as I was hoping for a mixed flock and a chance to increase my lifer haul.


Running out of ideas on how and where to get those damn partridges…


With daylight fast disappearing, we made one last attempt to discover and enjoy more Bornean avian delights by driving all the way up to Timpohon Gate again. Not long after our arrival, the thickening mist and the failing light threatened to drown out all our hopes. As we solemnly made our way back to the designated car park area, we spotted a male Bornean Whistling-Thrush foraging among the adjacent vegetation and our spirits started to lift.


But little did we know that Kinabalu Park had one last magical performance up its sleeve before we called it the day. Instead of continuing to forage among the vegetation, the thrush flew down to the road and started to hop towards us! Miraculously, I managed to keep my cool and got down as low as possible for a better angle to capture this unexpected turn of events. At one stage, I actually had to reduce the zoom on my lens. That was how close he came. 



The reason for his bold behaviour was the scraps left behind by my fellow human beings. He has learned to associate food with the presence of those clumsy biped creatures and foraging around the car park for food is easier than in the forest proper.




The Bornean Whistling-thrush was a fitting end to our first day of birding at Kinabalu Park. It has been a rewarding experience and has certainly exceeded my expectations so far. This is only the first half of my Bornean birding adventure and the next post will be an account of the remaining two days.

My Bornean birding adventure - Day 3 & 4 (13-16/09/2015)

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On our second day at Kinabalu Park, we left the warmth and comfort of our chalets room well before dawn. A short pre-dawn birding yielded only a heard record of the Mountain Scops-Owl. We headed towards Timpohon Gate again because we were hoping for a repeat performance of yesterday's events. On the way up, we stopped and offered a British birder that we met yesterday at the gate (I never caught the man's name). He has been here nearly a week and for the past few days, he has only one bird on his mind - the Friendly Bush-Warbler. So, the man walks at 4:30am from Kundasang (a small town just outside the park) to Timpohon Gate which is easily a 10km uphill journey just to see a little brown job. And people say that I'm insane...

At Timpohon Gate, the forest came alive with the sweet serenade of bird calls after the mist and darkness lifted. Upon first light, we got our first birds for the day. A flock of Sunda Laughingthrushes has also learned to forage for scraps at the car park area but the lighting condition was challenging for any form of photography.


The Chestnut-hooded Laughingthrushes are regulars to the gate every dawn to feed off the insects attracted by the lights at night. This laughingthrush is the commonest of them all here in Kinabalu Park and we recorded them every day.


Although my target for this trip is to see as many endemics as possible, a pair of Mountain Imperial Pigeons resting on a roadside tree was too good a photographic opportunity to pass. This pigeon is not uncommon in montane forests throughout Malaysia but I have had very few opportunities like this.




One thing I have learned from my years if birding is never to take anything for granted and I took a number of shots of this stately pigeon before we moved on.



How hard can it be to photograph something big, loud and usually occurs in flocks? It should be a walk in the park or so I thought. But in the natural world, not everything is always what it seems. The Bornean Treepies have been terribly shy despite their size and has successfully eluded my camera's sensor for the past couple days. When my one and only good opportunity presented itself, I had to make sure I did not squander it...


The birding has been exceptional at Kinabalu Park. I managed to obtain quite a high number of lifers including some extraordinary endemics. But if I were to name one species that stood out slightly more than the rest, it would be the Whitehead's Broadbill. Named after the scientist who first discovered it, this broadbill is like a bigger version of the Green Broadbill and naturally, a Bornean endemic. As impossible as it may sound, the Whitehead's Broadbill is more strikingly plumaged than the Green Broadbill which is already a jewel of the forest itself. I can throw in all kinds of bombastic words to describe the beauty of the Whitehead's Broadbill and all the emotions it has conjured from deep inside my soul when I first laid eyes on it but it will still do very little justice to the bird. And neither will my photos...


Apart from the broadbill, there are two other endemics named after the man - Whitehead's Trogon and Whitehead's Spiderhunter. I dipped out miserably on these two but I should count my blessings for not being denied of all three. The encounter remains so vivid in my thoughts although it is now nearly a week since my return from Borneo. I guess some memories are meant to last a lifetime.


Having lost the battle to the partridges yesterday, we were determined not to let it happen again today as we moved into the forest trails by mid-morning. Barely 50 meters into the trails, my ears picked up the far-carrying cries of a Crested Serpent-Eagle but it sounded strange. Peering through whatever small gaps in the canopy, I could make out two raptors circling overhead and my initial guess of the call was correct. They were indeed Mountain Serpent-Eagles. I have been looking up in the skies for this endemic raptor since the very first day we arrived at Kinabalu Park. Of all times, it decided to show itself when I am almost enclosed by the forest vegetation if the trail. Instinctively, I ran out of the trail as fast as I could. Unfortunately, human legs tend to be slower than the mighty wings of an eagle and by the time I got out into the open again, this was all I have to show for the encounter.


After catching my breath, it was back to the trails - again. Some movement among the undergrowth caught my immediate attention and I was left breathless again. A pair of Mountain Wren-Babblers was on the hunt and I was directly in their path. The undergrowth was a difficult place to obtain good views let alone photographs. At the end I managed a few record shots but it was another exciting encounter. Just in case you are wondering, the partridges got the better of me - again.


Unlike yesterday, the trails provided several noteworthy moments and bumping into this inquisitive Eyebrowed Jungle-Flycatcher was certainly one of them. This little brown job reminded me of the Rufous-browed Flycatcher of the peninsular. Frequenting the under storey of the forest, this flycatcher sometimes behaved more like a babbler than a flycatcher. It was confiding and seemed to ignore my presence as it went about its daily routine. But I found it difficult to capture it well.



In life, sometimes you just have to be patient and wait for your time to come. Before disappearing further into the undergrowth, the flycatcher alighted momentarily in front of me in full view. That, ladies and gentlemen, is the magic of Kinabalu Park. My only regret is that why did I wait more than two decades to finally make a visit to this side of my country.


A birdwave combing through the edge of the forest trail brought in the usual birds. There was a Bornean Whistler in the wave and I did not manage to photograph it yesterday when we saw it in a birdwave as well. But today, the whistler made up for yesterday's arrogance and I, for one, will not be holding any grudges.


On one occasion it came very close to my position. Unfortunately, the light was coming from the wrong direction but that is wildlife photography. You just have to roll with the punches. But even the strong backlight could not deny the Bornean Whistler for the beautiful bird that it is. It definitely deserves all the admiration it received from me and I am betting, from other birders as well.


We were so grateful and thankful for the good weather yesterday because by mid-afternoon today, the sky darken with rain clouds and the bird activity dropped significantly. This Flavescent Bulbul was the last species we recorded before the skies finally gave way to the surging rain.



We took shelter from the rain back at our accommodations, J Residence. I usually do not babble much on the accommodations during my birding trips but I think I will make an exception here. J Residence is located about 300 meters from the entrance to Kinabalu Park. From the front gate, you descend steeply to the office/reception building.


Further down the slope are about 8 semi-detached chalets with verandahs that come complete with coffee tables. Some of the chalets have full length glass panels on the front and the side with breathtaking views of the surroundings. Nigel made the right choice by choosing this place over the others and he even managed to get the chalets with the best views!



But the true reason why I love this temporary home is because of the birds. It is always the birds for me. While waiting out the rain at our verandah, I managed to obtain an additional three more endemic lifers! The Pygmy White-eye and the Bornean Spiderhunter just would not stay still long enough for their images to be taken. The only reason I managed to photograph this Chestnut-crested Yuhina is because it came in a big flock. Better odds…


Imagine waking up to a Bornean Treepie in all its glory just outside your verandah. If this is not living the good life, I do not know what is.


I always have a soft spot for puppies especially those with mischief written all over their faces. These two adorable rascals belong to one of the staff at J Residence. I made it a point to play them for a while at the end of each day and they are partly responsible why this trip such a memorable one.



The resident cat also received a fair share of my affections. I dosympathise her because living with the pups can be a little stressful at times. But she still puts up with them patiently and let them have their way most of the time. That's a good girl...


On the fourth and final day, we decided to head to Kota Kinabalu before dawn and do a couple of hours of birding before catching our flight home. At first light, we reached the entrance to the Kota Kinabalu Wetland Center (KKWC) only to find the gates close. A closer look at the signboard says that it will only be open at 8am and that will be an hour-long wait for us. Maybe it is just me but if you are running a wildlife reserve, shouldn't it be open at the time when the wildlife is most active and easily seen? Lady Luck has blessed us throughout the trip and just outside the boundaries of the center, a flock of Green Imperial Pigeon were only starting to stir on a tall dead. This species is scarce back home in the peninsular and to see a flock here at the outskirts of the capital city of Sabah was a privilege to me.




I guess these majestic pigeons are not uncommon here judging on how used they are to human presence. And they certainly helped past the time while we waited for the center to open. 



This may not be the best image of the Bornean race of the Oriental Magpie-Robin but it was the best that I could do. I find the Bornean race to be more attractive than the race found in the peninsular. The Bornean birders probably feel the way about the peninsular race. That is only human nature.


We even helped ourselves to another lifer in the form of a Rufous Night-Heron. Although the one that provided us the best views was a juvenile bird, it was still a lifer nevertheless.


We thought about trying our luck further north along the coast but to our horror, Randy's truck just will not start. It was a case of a flat battery. While Randy waited for assistance to arrive, the rest of us paid the tickets and went into the KKWC. I guess we were meant to visit the center. The boardwalks that cut through the mangroves were very scenic but there were hardly any birds. Even the observation hide yielded only some Pacific Golden Plovers and a juvenile Changeable Hawk-Eagle. All was not lost when we managed to obtain one last lifer for our trip to Borneo - the Bold-striped Tit-Babbler. Another recent split from the Pin-striped Tit-Babbler (formerly known as just the Striped Tit-Babbler); it was just a little too active for any photographic attempts. But it was a great way to wind down for a fantastic trip. As I bid farewell to Borneo, the numerous lifers that we obtained are destined to become reflections of wings and inspiration for a long time to come.


Here is the list of lifers from our trip. Bornean endemics are indicated with an asterisk.
1.  Brown Barbet* - Rafflesia Forest Reserve, Tambunan
2.  Bornean Treepie* - Rafflesia Forest Reserve, Tambunan
3.  Mountain Barbet* - Rafflesia Forest Reserve, Tambunan
4.  Bornean Leadbird* - Rafflesia Forest Reserve, Tambunan
5.  Chestnut-hooded Laughingthrush* - Rafflesia Forest Reserve, Tambunan
6.  Black-capped White-eye* - Rafflesia Forest Reserve, Tambunan
7.  Golden-naped Barbet* - Kinabalu Park
8.  Flavescent Bulbul* - Kinabalu Park
9.  Hair-crested Drongo - Kinabalu Park
10. Sunda Laughingthrush - Kinabalu Park
11. Bornean Whistling-thrush* - Kinabalu Park
12. Sunda Bush-Warbler - Kinabalu Park
13. Indigo Flycatcher - Kinabalu Park
14. Bornean Whistler* - Kinabalu Park
15. Black-sided Flowerpecker* - Kinabalu Park
16. Mountain Serpent-Eagle* - Kinabalu Park
17. Whitehead's Broadbill* - Kinabalu Park
18. Mountain Wren-Babbler* - Kinabalu Park
19. Mountain Black-eye* - Kinabalu Park
20. Eyebrowed Jungle-Flycatcher* - Kinabalu Park
21. Chestnut-crested Yuhina* - J Residence, Kundasang
22. Bornean Spiderhunter* - J Residence, Kundasang
23. Pygmy White-eye* - J Residence, Kundasang
24. Rufous Night-Heron – Kota Kinabalu Wetlands Center
25. Bold-striped Tit-Babbler* - Kota Kinabalu Wetlands Center

Showdown at Sedim Recreational Forest (19/09/2015)

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I got back from Borneo only to find out that the fruits on the ‘Hornbill Tree’ at Sungai Sedim in Kedah are finally bringing in the birds. Naturally, I was at the base of the tree just after dawn the following Saturday intently listening for the locomotive-like wing flaps of approaching hornbills. After all, hornbills are one of my all-time favourites. It took them a while but they did show up eventually and it was a pair of Rhinoceros Hornbills - a mother and her son. However, instead of gorging on the fruits, the pair rested for long periods among the foliage. 


With hardly any action at the ‘Hornbill Tree’, I diverted my attention to the 'Bulbul Tree' which was just on the other end of the car park area. My companions for the trip, Choo Eng, Nelson and Hor Kee, had already proceeded to that tree earlier on. The 'Bulbul Tree' has been feasted on by a countless number of birds for the past few weeks and surprisingly, the fruits are not completely depleted yet. The availability of food has made the Hairy-backed Bulbuls forgo their natural instinct and foraged right out in the open. 


I had my gear on a tripod for a change because I did not expect much walking for this trip if everything goes according to plans. 


As the tree is not as "crowded" as it was a couple of weeks back, I finally had the time to give the nondescript Spectacled Bulbul its due attention. It has been a regular patron to this fruiting tree since day one and will probably continue until do so until not even one fruit is left. 




Contrary to popular belief, not all bulbuls are dull-looking birds. A few species are as striking as any bird could possibly be. Take the Grey-bellied Bulbul for instance. The slaty grey head and underparts contrasting sharply with bright mustard upperparts are a combination of colours that only divine powers are capable of conjuring up. And a true delight for any birder to experience. 



Being slightly more confiding than usual on this slightly hazy morning, it provided one of the highlights of trip as I managed to obtain some of my best Grey-bellied Bulbul images to date. 


The Orange-bellied Flowerpecker is not uncommon here in Peninsular Malaysia. In fact, it is one of the most widespread species ranging from forests to built-up areas. The male is a cracking bird and I have been trying to obtain good images of him for quite some time now.


Fruiting trees are probably the only time when you can photograph flowerpeckers including this species, at a close distant and without any swearing. Beautiful as these birds may be, they can truly frustrate photographers with their preference for the canopy levels and their canning ability of moving away just as you press the shutter but not at a fruiting tree. Here, you can shoot to your heart’s content.



This male Crimson-breasted Flowerpecker was not so tempted by the fruits and made a brief appearance only. 


When Hor Kee spotted a flock of five White-crowned Hornbills perched on a distant tree, our morning just got a whole lot better. Birds have excellent eye sight and this flock had theirs fixed on the fruits of the 'Hornbill Tree'. The only problem was there were Rhinoceros Hornbills on the fruiting tree and the latter are certainly not the sharing type. 



So, it was down to strength in numbers against strength in size. Trouble was brewing at this little patch of birding paradise and we were caught smack right in the middle of it. We waited anxiously for the White-crowned Hornbills' next move. Unexpectedly, it was a female that broke the deadlock as she gliding into a nearby tree. Instinctively, the rest of the flock followed. However, size does matter in this case and the smaller White-crowned Hornbills abandoned their cause and retreated back into the forest moments later. 


The presence of the White-crowned Hornbills did not go unnoticed by the Rhinoceros Hornbills. We should actually thank the former because as soon as they left, the latter finally started to feed. Rhinoceros Hornbills may be one the commonest hornbills in Peninsular Malaysia but they are majestic, beautiful and impressive. And that horn of a casque from which its name is derived, does it for me every single time.




Again, it is the female that seemed to be bolder than the male. With disregards to our presence, she occasionally foraged quite low on the tree. This is probably the closest I have ever been to this remarkable creature. The last time this tree bore fruits was five years ago and back then, I only managed to observe and photograph the White-crowned Hornbills (not that I am complaining). This time, it was the Rhinoceros Hornbills to shine and boy, did they shine...




Or should I say she, because the young male was quite reluctant to forage down low or in the open for a long time. Once they had their fill, they retreated back to the foliage of the tree crown to rest. Humans are not the only ones guilty of committing the seven deadly sins. Greed and gluttony are certainly present in this pair as they guarded the tree from any other would-be patrons. 



We had one last look at the 'Bulbul Tree' before calling a day and Sungai Sedim was kind enough to present to us a nice farewell gift in the shape of a Gold-whiskered Barbet. This barbet is common throughout the country in suitable habitats. Being a typical canopy level dweller, I do not have many decent images of it despite of its status. It is no hornbill but the encounter was still one that contributed to the success of this trip. 



An inquisitive Rufescent Prinia peered at us from its grassy domain as we made our way out and wrapped things up for this time. We headed for a much-anticipated late lunch and unlike the Rhinoceros Hornbills, we graciously left the eatery after having our fill...

Here we go again (26/09/2015)

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With the migratory season coming into full swing, we decided to do a site recce up north to plan out our own "migration routes" for this season to check out all the wintering grounds there. My companions this time were Choo Eng, Hor Kee and Tulsi (a raptor specialist from Nepal currently doing a course at our local university) and the grasslands of Chuping in Perlis was our destination. We noticed some significant changes to the site but there is still hope. Some portions of the grasslands remain just the way they were last season.


It was a little too early to expect encountering anything out of the ordinary. However, there is now a huge heronry right in the middle of the grasslands. Hundreds of Black-crowned Night-herons and Purple Herons were seen nesting and resting at that patch of reed bed that is that well beyond harm's reach.


There was not much migrants encountered this trip but this confiding female Siberian Stonechat, hopefully, is a sign of things to come. Doing her little balancing act on a strain of grass, she had us transfixed on her every move as we observed her from our stationery vehicle.



Just like my last trip to Sungai Sedim, male birds appeared to be lacking in courage. He remained much further away from our vehicle during our observation. Or maybe he was a little reluctant to be photographed as he has almost moulted all of his striking breeding plumage. 


In the absence of notable birds, we had plenty of time to appreciate the beauty of these lands. The view of limestone hills set against beautiful blue skies and soothing green grasslands is like gazing onto the canvas of a piece of art. Who am I kidding? I didn't travel all the way here from Penang just to soak in the scenery. I am here for the birds. It has always been the birds for me and will always be…


It is good to see resident species still able to call this place home despite all the looming threats of converting the grasslands into rubber estates. The highly vocal Red-wattled Lapwings will never go unnoticed.


Indian Rollers are scarce on the western side of Peninsular Malaysia. So, to see pair is an exciting record regardless of the distance and the lighting condition.



To wrap things up for the day was this female migratory Brown Shrike having some trouble with the locals - a Garden Fence Lizard. Neither was big enough to overpower the other. Eventually, the shrike just hopped onto the next fence pole. End of conflict. Life goes on. If only it was this simple for all species that share this Earth to settle their differences - including us humans. 

The Sunset Pond (10/10/2015)

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The former mining ponds of Malim Nawar in Perak have been hosting exceptionally rare migratory water birds for the past few seasons. Thus, the slightly more than two-hour drive from Penang is a very small price to pay for potential mega lifers. Together with Hor Kee, we set out well before dawn for this birding adventure. Upon our arrival at the Sunset Pond, a name passionately given by birders to a particular pond, we found that it has been flooded with too much water and is now avoided by the water birds. The pond on the opposite side of the access track, on the other hand, was a different story. Hundreds of Little Egrets have gathered there to rest and feed gracing the vicinity with their poise and beauty.


There were at least a dozen Little Cormorants present as well. This species is gradually becoming commoner here in Peninsular Malaysia. It was most unfortunate that none of them ever came close to our position and flying shots were all that I managed to obtain today.



The adjacent ponds held spectacles of nature themselves too. This is the highest density of Oriental Pratincoles that I have ever laid eyes on and I have seen my fair share of Oriental Pratincoles prior to this.


Their numbers were easily a thousand strong in total. And whenever they took flight, they darkened the sky. And their calls, echoed throughout the vicinity.


We didscrutinise these flocks for the much rarer Little Pratincole that is known to occur here. We figured if there is ever a chance to find one, it would be today. In the end, the Little Pratincole remains elusive and our hopes, dashed.


The migratory terns are back in full force and their angelic presence is always a welcomed sight. The Little Tern occurs both in fresh and saline water habitats. Although it lacks the size of the other terns, it still possesses the aerial elegance and agility synonymous of this family of birds.


There are a few reasons behind the high concentration of waterbirds here. The availability of food is definitely one of them. Here, an adult Purple Heron was photographed making off with breakfast. Nothing like a hearty meal to start off the day...


The Grey Heron is another large waterbird that is always present at these ponds. Suitable habitats for this beautiful bird are disappearing rapidly in my home state of Penang and possibly, neighbouring states like Perak are the only places I can observe it in future.


As the migratory season is now in full swing, flocks of waders had to be given their due attention. When it comes to waders, you just do not know what rarities might be mingling with the commoner species. There were no surprises among the Little Ringed Plovers however...


A few of them were still in their striking breeding plumage and rightfully deserved some space in my camera's SD card.


Stints are the smallest, and the cutest, of all the waders. Due to their diminutive size, identification can be challenging at times. The Long-toed Stint is well-marked enough to be quite easily told apart from the other species. In fact, it is one of the most attractive of all the stints in winter. Although it was the only stint species present, the sheer number present and confiding nature made the encounter a memorable one.



Odd-sized stints werescrutinised for possible Pectoral and Sharp-tailed Sandpiper. I know I just mentioned that Long-toed Stints are quite distinct. But these are waders we are talking about and wader identification is never straightforward. Anyway, there were no Pecs and Sharpies to brighten up the day.



To wrap things up for this trip, a lone Oriental Honey-Buzzard was seen in flight and most probably on passage to its wintering ground further south. I guess it is that time of the year again when we will spend countless hours gazing up into the heavens while observing yet another spectacle of nature - raptor migration. 


The flooded forest (17/10/2015)

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It has been a while since my last visit to the swamp forest of Air Hitam Dalam in northern mainland Penang. Upon my arrival, the first thing that caught my attention was the amount of water that has covered the forest floor. It is no Amazon basin but to me, it is still a little piece of natural paradise not too far from home.


The rise in water level did not have much effect on the birds as the rear car park is still quite a centreof activity. I spent more time than usual at the car park today because of a small but striking migrant that performed well here last week for a few privileged birders - the Black-backed Kingfisher. But it was a no show by this dwarf kingfisher today. Abbott's Babblers are usually secretive birds that tend to keep to the cover of the forest undergrowth. The only indication of their presence is their tri-syllabiccall. Well, try telling that to this one...


Are birds capable of daydreaming? It looked like this female Ashy Tailorbird was and she remained stationery for quite a long period of time considering she is one of the most active species found here.


This Lineated Barbet was feeling a little smug as it almost got the better of me. It was on an exposed perch in front of me but I was too preoccupied with a Green-billed Malkoha that was moving about nearby to notice it. Then, James Neoh came along and casually made a remark of what a nice perch the Lineated Barbet was posing on. Thanks, bro...


Common as this barbet may be at this locality but its preference for the canopy levels often prevents good photographic opportunities. One on an exposed perch not too steep in angle is definitely worth a second shot.


The deafening calls of the Hill Myna are not often heard at this locality. Seeing that it is a local rarity, I did my best to locate the bird and I did. However, the only slightly unobstructed view was a distant one and yet again, I could only obtain record shots of this the largest of the mynas. Its ability to mimic human speech makes it a much sought-after cage bird and being kept in a cage is no way for this remarkable bird to live. That did not come out right. Being kept in a cage is no way for any bird to live.


I always have a soft spot for the Black-thighed Falconet. Not only is it adorable but its mannerism is also captivating at times. It does occur in small family groups and allo preening is a common practice among these tiny raptors.


This show of public affection is a relished activity. The expression of the bird on the receiving end says it all. One good turn...


Deserves another...


Air Hitam Dalam is one of the main roosting areas for the migratory Black Kites. Only a handful was seen today and they are probably the early arrivals. In the weeks to come, their numbers will increase significantly and dozens will call this place home for the winter months.


By mid-day, another yearning drew me from the swamp forest to the nearby coastal mudflats. The migratory waders are back and it is time once again to scan the coastlines for this fascinating group of birds. I made myself comfortable on the rocky outcrop of Bagan Belat and patiently waited for the rising tide to push my subjects closer to me.


The Common Redshanks were the first to come within reasonable shooting range but the harsh afternoon sun and shimmering heat wave made photography difficult. And thanks to a considerate neighbouring country, I now also have to deal with the haze as well.


Despite the abundance of food, Common Redshanks have a tendency to squabble and snatch each other's catch.


The Eurasian Curlews, on the other hand, behaved like the regal creatures that they are and there will always be an air of elegance and majesty about them.



Even their massive size could not withstand the rising waters and gradually, they moved closer to shore. Their occasional short burst of flight gave me a chance to capture them in flight.



A flock of lanky waders also made its way closer to shore and upon further scrutiny, turned out to be Black-tailed Godwits. Although it is not uncommon throughout its wintering range here in Malaysia, it is not often encountered at this range here in Penang. Naturally, they had my undivided attention.



In flight, it is easy to see why they are called Black-tailed Godwits...



This lone Terek Sandpiper came reasonably close to my position and stroll past my field of view a few times. It was only after the godwits left the scene did I started to pay it some attention. No hard feelings, ya?



We often come across common names of birds that do not truly reflect their appearance or character. Then there are those common names that really hit the nail on the head like the Common Sandpiper. It is undoubtedly the commonest of our waders. It may not occur in very big numbers at a single locality like some of the other waders but it occurs everywhere. And I mean everywhere. With that, I concluded my first visit to the mudflats for the season and it is good to be back. 

Haze gets in your eyes (24/10/2015)

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There is usually a sense of excitement as you make your way to a birding site. The further the site is from home, you more excited you tend to be. That is only natural. But today's journey to the forest of Sungai Sedim evokes no such emotions. Instead there was concern and resentment. The haze that has engulfed my country of late did not show any signs of clearing up. And the beautiful scenery that usually welcomes my arrival to this site is now stained by the foul air. And for the first time in all my years of birding, I had to wear a surgical face mask to indulge in this favourite pastime of mine. What is this world coming to...

The forest was exceptionally quiet today. Even the persistent calls of the resident barbets and broadbills did not echo across the vicinity as usual. It seemed as if the gloomy sky and intoxicating haze were chocking the life out of the forest. The rays of the morning sun could not find a way here and a dimly-lit forest will utterly test your sanity and ability as a bird photographer. A confiding juvenile Rufous-winged Philentoma came extremely close while it foraged for breakfast. By right, this should have provided a collection of good images. But not today.



A territorial dispute had a resident pair of Yellow-bellied Bulbuls chasing off an intruder through the lower level of the forest. When the chase was finally over, the intruder had unknowingly alighted on a nearby branch to catch its breath and I tried to make the best of out of the encounter.


When a juvenile Crow-billed Drongo led a bird wave across my path, for a brief moment birding was back to how it is supposed to be. A dozen species of birds held my attention as I determined their identification and observed their behaviour. When the wave finally passed through, deafening silence took over again and the bird activity died down to almost a complete halt. After a while, I gave up and retreated back towards the car park while thinking up a contingency plan.


In Penang, there is one particular site that will usually have something about no matter the time or condition. Air Hitam Dalam has rarely let me down in the past and I found myself back at the swamp forest for the second consecutive Saturday. The annual southerly passage of migrating raptors is well underway but the current air quality kept me back from our usual raptor count site at Bedong. I was quite pleased to see a flock of thirty Black Kites riding the thermals above the car park area. Migrating raptors is truly a spectacle of nature. This particular individual flew lower than the rest which made photography still possible in this shooting condition.


This striking male Korean Flycatcher is gradually getting accustomed to the hospitality here. Seeing him foraging among the canopy level jolted me back to last season. Back then we had a couple of friendly males that provided countless memorable encounters.


The Green-billed Malkoha proved to be a difficult subject again as it move from tree to tree in search of food.



To wrap things up for this hazy day is one of the star birds of this birding site - the Streak-breasted Woodpecker. Its limited range in Peninsular Malaysia is the reason behind its celebrity status and a performing male bird will never be taken for granted. 

I can see clearly now the haze is gone (07/11/2015)

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Luck plays a major part in birding and it is not only luck with the birds but the other factors as well like the weather. Just last week we had the worse haze pollution ever. Well, clear blue skies are finally back in my beloved homeland and Andy, my latest guest from the United Kingdom, could not have been any luckier. He got to experience birding here for the first time in such beautiful weather. The first location that we visited was the swamp forest of Air Hitam Dalam.


The Mangrove Blue Flycatcher lived up to its reputation as the ambassador of this site and provided a warm reception upon our arrival. Good morning, bud..


Bird waves hardly ever occur at this birding site but when you have luck on your side, anything is possible. This bird wave that took place next to the elevated boardwalk that cuts through the swamp forest did not have a lot of species in it. But less does not necessary mean dull. Golden-bellied Gerygones formed the majority and at less half a dozen of them took part in the wave. More often heard than seen, this little bird with the big voice grabbed the attention of my guest (and mine) by devouring a green caterpillar at eye level!


The Arctic Warbler is undoubtedly the commonest of all the wintering leaf warblers. However, good views are hard to obtain due to their active nature and preference for the canopy levels. Either it was luck again or the intensity of the bird wave altered the behaviour of this individual. It foraged very close to our positions - sometimes at a mere arm's length. This bold approach by the warbler was so unlike all the Arctic Warblers I have observed before that I took extra precaution to make sure I got the identification right. This photo here is my best effort from the encounter and it is unlikely I will ever get to enjoy another photographic opportunity like this again.


When the bird wave subsided, we continued to explore the rest of the site. It was then that a Buffy Fish-Owl flew across our path. I guess we unintentionally spooked it from its roost. It alighted on the far side of the river and the distance was simply too far for any good photos but the open perch did provide superb views for Andy. I should have taken a record shot of this owl because at the end of the day, we had three species of owls in broad daylight on this trip. That is something that does not happened all that often. The Brown Boobook was the second species. It was seen on its usual roost site and unlike the much larger Buffy Fish-Owl, it is not that easily spooked. In fact it was giving us the stare.


The third and final owl was the Spotted Wood-Owl. I have not seen this species here for quite a long time now. And I had Andy to thank because it was him that spotted it first. This species is by no means uncommon but a daytime sighting like this still does it for me.


The last species to thrill us before we proceeded to our next birding destination was the Stork-billed Kingfisher. Three birds were present and they filled the vicinity with their loud and raucous calls as they were having a territorial dispute. Needless to say, this striking kingfisher received its due admiration.


From the swamp forest we traveled to the paddy fields of Permatang Pauh. There is one particular spot that has been hosting a number of scarce migratory waders for the past week or so. After being forced off-course a few times due to maintenance works along the access trail that cuts through the fields, we finally reached our destination. The Grey-headed Lapwings, being the largest of the waders present, were naturally the first that we took notice of.


There were several stints foraging actively on the exposed mud. Upon further scrutiny, there were a few Red-necked Stints and Long-toed Stints. But the one I was really looking was the Temminck's Stint and we found at least two of them in the vicinity. It may be a dull looking wader but you will never find me ignoring this little peep due to its scarcity here in Malaysia.


There is absolutely no wader that even comes close the elaborate and stunning breeding plumage of the Ruff. Unfortunately, we will never get to see them sporting their breeding plumage here in their wintering grounds in Southeast Asia. This species winters in small numbers here in Peninsula Malaysia and the pair that we managed to locate today, put on quite a good performance.


With the haze gone and the migrants back in full force, it looks like this migratory season is finally in full swing. Uncommon migrants like the Ruff, hopefully, will be keeping me occupied for the months to come.




A mixed flock resting terns wrapped things up for this trip. Terns in winter plumage are not the easiest of birds to identify. However, this flock was quite confiding. We took our time to positively identify them from the comfort of our car and Andy added three more ticks to his list of Malaysian birds and they were Whiskered, White-winged and Little Tern (not in photo). 

It ain't over till the fat lady sings (14/11/2015)

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One of the things that I fear the most when leading a guided tour is the absence of birds - naturally. Kumar and Sujatha's first day of tour did not start off well. This couple from Chennai dipped out on the roosting Barred Eagle-owls at Kulim that I normally show guests. And I should have heeded the warning. We were greeted by the dawn chorus and clear blue skies at the Sungai Sedim car park. However, apart from the Treeswifts at their usual morning perch and a teasing Scarlet-rumped trogon, there was nothing much about that I could actually show. Three hours had passed and still nothing. It was as though the forest had swallowed every single bird. The stress and anxiety was killing me. I was half expecting Kumar to walk up to me and ask me if there will be birds in my guided bird tour.


Thankfully, that did not happen. Out of desperation, I took my guests on a trail less trodden and at the end of that trail, my prayers were answered - a fruiting tree that was alive with bird activity. At that moment, I could safely say my job was done. With my composure and confidence back to normal, I started to point out the birds starting with this Cream-vented Bulbul.


With only the eye colouration being the most distinct difference between the Red-eyed Bulbul and Cream-vented Bulbul, a confiding Red-eyed Bulbul would probably be the best way I could show my guest the differences. Ask and you shall receive…


A total of nine different bulbuls were recorded at the tree and apart from the sulking Yellow-bellied Bulbul, we managed to photograph all of them. This Hairy-backed Bulbul was almost as difficult and provided very few shots.


By the time the Finsch's Bulbul decided to drop in, the bulbuls at this fruiting tree really had me singing for my supper as I had to differentiate all of them to my client. I could imagine how confusing all these bulbuls are to visiting birders. When not seen well, bulbuls can be confusing to me as well.


The Grey-cheeked Bulbul was being itself today - bulky, vocal and robust. It was certainly hard to overlook it despite the presence of so many other bulbuls.


There are some Bulbuls that certainly do not require much effort to differentiate them from the rest like this splendid Grey-bellied Bulbul.


A pair of Ashy Bulbuls announced their arrival to the fruiting tree with their nasal and persistent calls. This strikingly marked bulbul made our observation at this fruiting all so rewarding.


One of the most photogenic of the bulbuls present today was the Streaked Bulbul. Being slightly more uncommon than the rest, it had our attention the moment it alighted on the fruiting tree. It may lack the colours of some of the other bulbuls but it always projects a sense a grace with its sleek body contour.


The fruiting tree also produced a few species of Leafbirds, Flowerpeckers and Sunbirds. Witnessing such a feast of colours and variety certainly build up our appetites and lunch came soon after that. Our next destination was the paddy fields of Kubang Semang. I drove straight to the spot where the wintering waders were performing well and sure enough, about 40 Grey-headed Lapwings were resting on a flooded field.


As my guests were enjoying their lapwing lifer, I scanned the vicinity for anything else. My senses went into overdrive when I spotted 3 ducks among the lapwings. I could hardly contain my emotions and for the first time today, it was the guide who was quivering with excitement and not his guests. Ducks winter in the hundreds where my guests call home and it will take a whole lot more than three for them to have the same reaction. 


Anyway, upon further scrutiny, the ducks turned out to Garganeys. I felt I needed to justify myself by explaining how uncommon this species is here and that the ones we were looking at was my fourth record in all my years of birding.



Show-off!



Our last destination for the day was the Air Hitam Dalam Educational Forest. Like clockwork, we were greeted by the usual species upon our arrival at the rear car park. Unfortunately, things did not quite pick up after that and this Black Kite was probably the highlight for me at this site. Despite the initial hiccup at the beginning of the tour, we did have a good outing at the end of the day. And it is all thanks to some blind luck and a fruiting tree.

A sanctuary, really?

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For the second day of their tour, Kumar and Sujatha were feeling a little adventurous and opted for a trip up Bukit Larut (Maxwell Hill) - the birding site where the journey there itself is already an adventure. Countless hairpin corners await every visitor as the jeep drivers skillfully shuttle visitors up and down the hill. This site not for the faint-hearted but once the jeep drops you off; you enter a birding paradise that can match any premier site in the country on a good day.



Trogons are in their list of birds to see and I felt a little bad about failing to show them any during yesterday's tour. But when I heard an Orange-breasted Trogon calling very closely next to the access road, I knew this could be a chance to redeem myself. With a little patience, we managed to track down the trogon and it was a handsome male. A confiding one as well and my initial worries of another slow morning was swept away by the fine performance of this trogon.


The call of the birds is what usually gives away their presence especially in a dense forest habitat like Bukit Larut. The persistent calling of the Streaked Wren-Babbler from the undergrowth caught our immediate attention. And when it finally revealed itself, it gained our full admiration.


The high-pitched notes of the Pygmy Cupwing (formerly called the Pygmy Wren-Babbler) are one of the characteristic sounds of the montane forest here in Peninsula Malaysia. The new name may take a little getting used to but it certainly suits the bird. Only an adorable bird can carry a name like this and the Pygmy Cupwing is oozing with cuteness. This little ball of feather is simply a delight to observe and all my years of field experience with it have not change that fact.


The dim lighting and misty condition however made it very challenging for photography despite the fine performance by the little guy. Even when it was on an open perch, most of my photos did not turn out well. But it was an amazing encounter nonetheless and one that certainly had us mesmerized.


Bird waves are natural a phenomenon that occur on a regular basis in montane forests. It may be feast for your sense of sight and sound but the sheer number and rapid movement of the birds proves to be too overwhelming for photography most of the time. Out of the dozen species of birds from this particular wave, I only managed to capture an image of this Mountain Bulbul.


It is very unlikely for anyone to miss out on the Streaked Spiderhunter here or any other hill resort in the country. For such a common and flashy bird, I do not have many photographs of it that I am truly proud of. So when we came across one that showed very little fear of our presence while it was indulging on the flower nectar of a low bush, we responded by showering it with lots of love and affection.



The red legs and vividly-marked plumage makes the Streaked Spiderhunter one of the best looking Spiderhunters in Malaysia.  And I am elated I managed my best effort for this species to date.


Even the commonest of birds, like this Pacific Swallow, can sometimes provide excellent photographic opportunities that cannot be ignored....


Bro, check out the rump on that one...


We were scheduled to take the early afternoon jeep down the hill and that gave us time for a visit to the mangroves of Kuala Gula Bird Sanctuary. A confiding Brown Shrike was the first bird to greet us as we entered the boundaries of the bird sanctuary.


The sight of an Indian Roller resting on an electrical pole got me feeling nostalgic because I saw this beautiful bird for the first time many years back at this locality as well. Although it is not as rare as it used to be, any sighting of an Indian Roller is still exciting to me. As the name implies, it is common in my guests' homeland of India and nearly every field there will have one it seems.


When we drove deeper into the sanctuary, I was disgusted and saddened by the number of commercial fishponds being excavated. They might as well rename this place to Kuala Gula Aquaculture Center. A lot of the birds may no longer find sanctuary here and neither will I if this goes on unchecked.



By then weather had changed according to my mood and rain clouds started to form followed by drizzles. The only thing that almost lifted my spirit was this leucistic myna because from far it looked like a mysterious starling to me. With the day drawing to an end, we made our way out but this site did provide some pleasant encounters to both my guests and me despite it all. This time's tour was like a roller coaster ride. It had its ups and downs but in the end, it was still an exhilarating ride.

Where raptors roam (Part I)

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The grasslands of Chuping in the tiny state of Perlis have garnered interest and fascination from birders throughout Malaysia and beyond. My latest clients are from Singapore and these three avid birders had only one thing on their minds - to experience the magic of Chuping. And it was to be a three-day trip. I picked up Jerry, CP and Martin from the airport and we made a quick stop at Air Hitam Dalam before heading north to Perlis. By the time we broke loose from the weekday traffic snarl of Penang Island and finally made to the site, it was rather late in the morning. Most of the birds had gone into hiding because of the blistering heat. But Air Hitam Dalam usually does not let you leave empty handed.


We did manage to see some birds and the highlight at this site for me was this Dark-sided Flycatcher. It was a juvenile and young ones can sometimes be a lot bolder than you expect.




It was mid-afternoon when we entered the grassy domain of Chuping. The limestone hills set against the clear blue sky is a view I can never get tired of. However, the overwhelming heat is a small price to pay as this is, after all, the hottest region in Peninsular Malaysia. 


The Indian Roller stirred my senses again just like my last excursion. At this locality, it is quite regularly encountered. We saw about four rollers this afternoon and this one performed admirably as it devoured a huge grasshopper in front of four gawking birders.


Despite being an open country specialist, the sleek and graceful Black Drongo is usually wary of human presence. A little persistency eventually got us reasonably close to one of the dozens present in the vicinity today. Chuping is one of its main wintering grounds in Malaysia and at the right time, exceptionally high numbers can be recorded.


Our main target birds for this trip were raptors. The open grassland of Chuping is home and winter refuge for numerous species of raptors. This is where raptors reign supreme. So, we were definitely at the right place. But was it the right time? This dark morphed Booted Eagle thinks so as it glided above our stationery vehicle.


It did not take long for us to come across the next raptor and this time, it was a Greater Spotted Eagle. This majestic raptor was soaring a little too high for my gear to capture any good images but its presence certainly raised the level of excitement within my group.


This lone female Pied Harrier was seen taking a breather among the long grass under the hot afternoon sun. The grassland here is one of the wintering strongholds for harriers and several were seen throughout the afternoon.


It is always a pleasure to observe the graceful and buoyant flight of the harriers. Photography-wise I did not fare so well and these are my best efforts of a male Eastern Marsh-Harrier and his much darker mate coming in to roost for the day.



The Asian Pied Starlings were performing well today. I find it hard not to take notice of them. Just look at it. The colours and character jumps out right at you.


This pair was having a lovers' squabble and although the sexes are identical, I have a strong feeling the dominant one is not the male...



As the day drew to an end, we saw at least 100 Red Collared-Doves gradually making their way to their roosting ground among the rubber trees. These handsome doves wrapped things up for the day and it was an early night for us at the home stay accommodation in Changlun town because tomorrow is going to a full day of birding which I will cover in the second part of my post. 

Where raptors roam (Part II)

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We were back at the grasslands the next morning after a hearty breakfast at one of the local eateries just outside our lodging. Convenience is the reason why I chose to spend the night in Changlun which is about 15 minutes' drive from Chuping. No harm for an occasional indulgence during a birding trip.


As far as swallows go, the Rufous-bellied Swallow is probably the one that will get my adrenalin pumping the most. The contrasting colours of the body plumage and long forked tail do it for me every time.



Quite a number were resting in between sallies for breakfast on a recently ploughed field and as long as there were not too much movement from inside the car, the swallows were quite accommodating. Expecting a car full of bird photographers to remain still in the presence of these swallows is a very tall order. Luckily, the swallows will come back to the same perch time after time.


The Brahminy Starling is back for the second consecutive season as reported by Dave and Hor Kee a few days before our trip. Despite a careful sweep of the area, the only starlings we had were Asian Pied Starlings. A whole lot of them I might add.


The guys also came across a family of Bronze-winged Jacanas during their visit here and relocating the jacanas took some effort because they were quite wary of our presence. We managed only distanced shots and any attempt to stalk closer will put these peculiar but striking waterbirds into flight mode.



The juvenile does resemble a Pheasant-tailed Jacana at first glance. I saved myself the blushes when I corrected the mistaken identification of the youngster almost immediately.


While attempting to regain the trust of the jacanas, this Rusty-rumped Warbler decided to hop out of its hidden world among the undergrowth and showed off its rarely-seen cryptic plumage. This is my first photograph of this species that has a complete view of the torso and the softness of the image, was never a concern.


The Pied Harriers were encountered more frequently at this section of the grassland. This juvenile, typical of youngsters, was showing off his aerial agilities in the presence of a group of overseas birders.


Very few raptors can match the beauty of a male Pied Harrier. The striking colours and buoyant flight pattern is certainly a sight to behold. Unfortunately, the lighting and distant of the bird in this photograph could not capture the true essence of the encounter.


After lunch, we headed towards Perlis State Park which is about an hour's drive away. I wanted to give my guests a fuller experience by spending some time in the forest. It was a decision I live to regret. There were hardly any birds present and the forest was exceptionally silent. A lone Dark-sided Flycatcher soaking in the soothing rays of the evening sun is probably the only bird that is even worth posting here.


A pre-dawn birding session the next day produced at least 3 Blyth's Frogmouth from which not even one made itself visible. At times, these stealthy nightbirds were reasonably close but we just could not trace the eerie call back to the source. Evolution has made the frogmouth perfectly adapted in its nocturnal domain and I guess the only time we can see it is when it wants us to. A dawn chorus of only two species of birds was the last straw and we were back at Chuping in time to watch an elegant Black-shouldered Kite hunt above the grassland.


By the time we saw a Short-toed Eagle riding the thermals on its impressive wingspan, the washout at Perlis State Park became a very distant memory.


When the scorching sun was at its zenith, more raptors came out for our admiration. A second Greater Spotted Eagle for the trip would have been a much sweeter experience if it was slightly lower.


Before we could completely recover from the Greater Spotted Eagle encounter, a large raptor glided very low overhead and it was our second Short-toed Eagle of the day. At this distance, even the harsh midday sun could not deny us some outstanding shots from the encounter with this rare raptor.



We saw this Osprey at the same pylon for the second time this trip. The pylon was an ideal perch to rest as it is located well beyond the reach of any harm. A distant flight shot was the only thing that ever came out of that encounter.



A Common Kestrel shunning away from all the attention it was receiving us wrapped things up for our 3-day birding adventure at the northern tip of Peninsular Malaysia. My guests managed to record 3 raptor species at Air Hitam Dalam and an additional 10 more at Chuping. Now, that is something that exceeded even my own expectations. 


Faith restored...(04/12/2015)

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I was a little uneasy as I drove past the archway that leads to the forest of Sungai Sedim in Kedah with a couple of Australian guests, Barbara and Peter, after the very slow start at this locality during my last visit. As the first rays of the morning sun gradually found their way through the dense vegetation, the forest came to life with the calls of birds and my faith in the birds at my local patches, restored.


A male Scarlet-rumped Trogon started the day off by perching on a branch long enough for everyone to marvel at his striking plumage. His persistent calling was the thing that betrayed his presence as he sat motionless at the canopy level.


However, the day did not only belong to the birds. A roosting Dayak Fruit Bat was a rather interesting find and I tried my best to obtain a decent shot in this challenging lighting condition.


The fruiting tree that I discovered 2 weeks ago still had some fruits. And where there are fruits, there will be birds. Although the variety is species present was not as high as my previous trip, the fruiting still managed to provide a memorable experience. Cream-vented Bulbuls are among the patrons on this beautiful morning.


The Buff-vented Bulbul also came for the fruits. Both species of bulbuls are nondescript in appearance but their behaviour at the fruiting was anything but dull.


The high level of bird activity must have caught the attention of this presumably Japanese Sparrowhawk. Due to the angle of the photo, Chaiyan the raptor man himself, cannot be absolutely sure of the identity of this little raptor. Female and young accipiters can be notoriously difficult to identify in the field but their presence will always increase the level of excitement of any birding excursion.


On the way to our next destination, the paddy fields of Kubang Semang, I took a little detour at the Kulim High-Tech Park for the roosting Barred Eagle-Owls. It was a gamble that paid off well as we did manage to find one despite the fact that I had nothing but a huge Rain Tree to show during my last two trips.


At the paddy fields, we were greeted by the huge flocks of Grey-headed Lapwings that are really getting very comfortable at their wintering ground this season.


The adorable stints were present in good numbers as well. Unfortunately, most them were a little too far for my gear except for this lone Long-toed Stint. Smartly-dressed even in winter, this little peep certainly got our attention. 


Little Ringed Plovers have a rather dull winter plumage and this one was trying very hard to get a little attention as well...


The migratory Eastern Yellow Wagtails were seen throughout the day. They are constantly on the move and good shots are hard to come by. So, when one casually strolled by our field of view, it was an opportunity not to be missed.


The final destination of the day was the Air Hitam Dalam Educational Forest. Again, this site did not quite deliver during my last trip and it was a mediocre affair for my guests. The resident pair of Mangrove Blue Flycatchers made sure it will not happen again.


The male was especially cooperative today and although you are almost guaranteed to see him on every visit, he is still a handsome and charming bird. And to me, it is a sin to ignore him when he is performing as well as this. That's a good boy...


Woodpeckers are loud, colourful and full of character. In this little patch of swamp forest, you stand a very good chance of seeing one in action. The Banded Woodpecker is not uncommon here but its preference for the higher canopy levels makes it a little difficult for photography. We came upon this male foraging at almost eye level but he did not stay for long and quickly made his way to the safety of the canopy level.


This site is renowned for daytime sightings of owls and today, a roosting Brown Boobook provided the perfect ending to a rewarding and memorable trip. Life is certainly blissful when everything goes according to plan. May it be a guiding a bird trip or taking a snooze with total peace of mind on your favourite roosting tree.




Harrier Central Part 1 (05/12/2015)

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I picked up Ben, one of my regular guests from Singapore, from the hotel much earlier than usual. It is because we were heading to the forest of Pedu before proceeding to the open grasslands of Chuping. This 2-day tour spanning over the twonorthernstates promises a memorable trip for us. The slightly more than 2 hours’ drive to our first locality did not seem to take as long due to the feeling of anticipation and excitement that was building up inside me. Pedu is home to numerous forest denizens but most of the rarer species, including the Giant Pitta, were exceptional elusive this trip. The commoner species, on the other hand, kept us busy for the entire morning.


A canopy dweller by nature, the beautiful Raffles's Malkoha usually stays clear of terrestrial dangers and birders alike as they forage along the upper levels of the forest. Like all malkohas, they are quite active and fast, moving about like squirrels rather than birds. This female was enjoying a little sunbathing from the top of a tree. She was still far but by being stationery, she gave us a chance to try and capture her true beauty.


Ever since the discovery of wintering Rosy and Swinhoe's Minivets to Peninsular Malaysia, I have been paying extra attention to flocks of the much commoner Ashy Minivets. Flitting about the canopy, these graceful and extremely active birds are hard to observe and photograph. After much scrutiny, this flock turned out to be nothing more than Ashy Minivets. The males with their distinct colouration did not pose much hassle in terms of identification.


It is the paler females that I had to pay more attention to…


There is no shortage of striking birds that seek refuge in the forest here. The male Ruby-cheeked Sunbird is certainly one of them. Sunbirds are small and active birds. A good amount of perseverance (and strong neck muscles) is required in order to obtain good views. He did take a breather at one time but unfortunately, it was in the shade. In this dim lighting, the resplendent colour of the male bird was never fully revealed.


The Grey-bellied Bulbul is one of nature's finest creations and deserves all the admiration and attention it usually receives from birders - even when the lighting does not complement his vivid colours well.


The strong sunlight and dense foliage hindered our efforts to capture this Black-crested Bulbul while it foraged in the lower level of the forest canopy. I always find myself drawn to this common species and I bet the wicked crest has got a lot to do with it.


An Oriental Honey-Buzzard circling low above the forest canopy was one of the highlights of the visit here. It may be one of the commonest of the wintering raptors but it is also the most varied in plumage and the source of most raptor misidentifications.


A second look is inevitable just to make sure it is not something else…


As we were making our way out of Pedu, we came across two more Oriental Honey-Buzzards separately. Our primary target for this trip was the raptors at Chuping. This multiple Honey-Buzzard sightings were a sign of things to come. I just did not know it at that time.



It was blazing hot when we finally got round to venturing out on the open grassland of Chuping. Flocks of mynas and starlings were taking advantage of whatever pools of water to cool down. A thorough scan along the electrical lines where these birds have gathered to bathe produced something that I was really wishing from among a flock of Asian Pied Starlings. However, I have to make a mental note that whenever I wish for something from the Big Guy upstairs, I should be more specific. So, instead of just wishing to see the juvenile Brahminy Starling that was recorded by my buddies earlier this month, I should also mention that preferably in mint condition and not like it has just been dragged through a washer.


As I was still contemplating if this was indeed the juvenile Brahminy Starling (drenched birds are a little tricky to identify), our second Malaysian record, an Indian Roller swooped down from one of the electrical poles and alighted on a low stake right next to our stationery vehicle. We are used to seeing the Indian Roller at this locality but to see one on a natural perch is somewhat of a privilege due to this beautiful bird's fetish for steel and cable perches.


We came here for the raptors and it did not take too long for us to record the first one of the trip and it was a dark morphed Booted Eagle. A rare winter visitor to our shores, Chuping is the only place where it regularly recorded. It is unfortunate that all my encounters with this species so far are distant observations and once again, I only managed record shots.


The harriers were also up and about but the only one that came relatively close was this juvenile Pied Harrier. By then, the weather had unexpectedly turned for the worse and rain clouds started to form just beyond the limestone hills. With the availability of light now being restricted, shooting raptors in flight was no longer a walk in the park.


Regardless of the weather condition, the ever-abundant Eastern Yellow Wagtails went about their business as usual. This is a typical winter plumage bird...



And this is the pimped up version. At least two leucistic individuals have been recorded here this season and this is my first encounter with one. The odd colouration does give it an exquisite appearance but it also makes it stand out like a sore thumb and that makes it vulnerable to predators. The first raindrops brought our excursion to an early end but from the look of things, tomorrow looks set to a great day and that will be covered in my next post. 

Harrier Central Part 2 (06/12/2015)

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Ben and I entered the boundaries of the former sugarcane plantation of Chuping slightly before dawn on the scold day of our tour. The Savanna Nightjars were still patrolling their territories and their single-note calls pierced through the misty grasslands. At first light, we were scanning the ploughed fields as there was plenty of bird activity. Yesterday, the Red-throated Pipits managed to evade our every attempt to photograph them. Naturally, I kept an eye out for them today and we managed to capture one foraging in the golden light of morning. The distance hampered the quality of the photos but because this pipit is notoriously difficult to photograph, you will not hear a peep from me.


The small passerines might be early risers but this lone male Pied Harrier appeared a little sluggish as he rested among the ploughed fields. I told Ben that this is usually as good as it gets with this wary raptor and he should take a few more shots before we crept closer in our vehicle.


I could hardly believe it when the harrier was the least bothered by our approach and stayed put. This is the closest I have ever approach a resting harrier and it was a little too early in the morning to be hallucinating. Things are rarely perfect when birding. But a handsome male Pied Harrier absolutely at ease and posing beautifully in the rays of the early morning sun is about as close to perfection as I could imagine.


The harrier made me look bad by being so confiding and Ben is probably thinking "Shy...yeah, right". But he provided one of the best moments in my birding life. The rest of Chuping beckons but there was no way we could leave him without taking some time to sit back, relax and truly soak in the moment. And moments like these are forever.


There is no sure thing when it comes to birding. The birds are wild and free creatures. So, when you think you have them all figured it out, they do something unexpected. And unexpected can sometimes turn to unprecedented.


The Pied Harriers of Chuping were not quite done and a second male provided a breathtaking aerial performance. It is hard to imagine a creature so graceful and elegant to be a deadly bird of prey but that is what the harrier is.



Either it was my gear or my own doing; some of the photos did not turn out quite as well as I hoped for. I had to settle for another memorable experience that was only fully captured in my memory. 



Our next encounter with a harrier was this juvenile Pied Harrier quartering the grassland in search of food. Although, it usually does not prey on big birds like egrets but its presence made a flock of Cattle Egrets uneasy and the latter was constantly put to flight. It was another close encounter and today, Chuping was really living up to its reputation as a harrier haven.


Ben came here for the raptors and he certainly got what he wanted. A female Common Kestrel was seen standing among some dry grass and the level of excitement rose again.


Assuming that we will get a repeat performance of the male Pied Harrier earlier, our vehicle rolled ever so confidently towards the falcon but she was having none of it. She took flight before we could reach optimal distance and both falcon and her newly-caught prey, that we were totally not aware of, disappeared beyond the horizon.


The dark morph Booted Eagle kept its distance again and I was really getting numb towards its reaction of my presence year in year out. And the amount of swearing has also reduced tremendously.


However, I cannot say the day about the Bronze-winged Jacanas. This is the first season that we are seeing them here in Chuping and each sighting still made me tremble with excitement. When emotions are high, they can be hard to contain. I cannot help but feel a little frustrated every time the Jacanas turned tail and fly off to the far end of the pond at the slightest hint of our presence. For crying out loud...


The Short-toed Eagle was another distant encounter but due to its rare status, it was still worth getting out of our vehicle, brace the blistering heat, trod on muddy soil to capture a few record shots.


Sometimes, nature has a way of balancing things out. After a string of record shots, a lone male Eastern Marsh-Harrier hunting just above the tree line reinforced Chuping's position as the harrier haven of Malaysia and we were in for a treat.



The male Eastern Marsh Harrier may lack the striking colour contrast of the male Pied Harrier but he certainly does not lack the grace and aerial agility. In fact, I found his aerial ballet to be moremesmerising than the latter.


There are a number of raptor species that are more easily seen in Chuping than anywhere else in Malaysia. That is why it is prime raptor country. The Osprey regularly winters here and I have had numerous encounters with it in the past. But this time was a little different. The fish hawk was on the hunt...



Renowned for its death-defying dives for fish, we held our breath when the raptor circled the pond one last time and started to hover - no doubt zooming in on its next unfortunate prey. The dive was too fast for either of us to react and we also missed the final moments of the dive because we were positioned on higher ground and where the raptor procured its meal was blocked from view. With its prized catch secured within its deadly talons, the Osprey flew to the nearest pylon to enjoy the reward of its labour.


By mid-afternoon, we decided to have a change of scenery and drove our way back south to the paddy fields of Kubang Semang in mainland Penang. It is still open country habitat but here it is not the raptors that rock but the migratory waders. The flocks of Grey-headed Lapwings were at hand to greet any visiting birders - as usual.


While savouring the sights and sounds of the lapwings, I picked out a handful of Ruffs foraging in the vicinity. Even at a distance, the distinct body shape of these scarce waders is easily noticeable. The dim lighting and distance provided me no opportunities to obtain any improvement shots.


Evolved to blend perfectly into its surroundings, snipes are the masters of camouflage in the avian world. If we had not been stationery and looking through our binoculars, there is a very good chance this snipe would have gone unnoticed. Positive identification is another issue with snipes especially between the Pintail and Swinhoe's Snipe and I am certainly not going there. So, Swintail Snipe it is then...


Stints are very tiny waders. So small that they are almost invisible when standing still among mud. The Temminck's Stint is one of the dullest-looking but it also happens to be one of the rarest. A confiding individual resting on a patch on mud may not produce any vibrant photos but it got two grown men jostling for space to photograph this little brown job.



As evening approaches, the rain clouds found us again - just like yesterday. The sky darkened rapidly and we could smell the moist odour of rain in the far distance. A flock of Black-winged Stilts huddled closer together in anticipation of a cold and wet tropical night. Inevitably, we had to call it a day and next task on hand was getting Ben to the airport on time. But even the thunderstorm that unleashed shortly could not drown out the amazing time we had on this trip especially the aerial displays of the raptors at Chuping. 

Christmas cheers

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Chandru is an avid birder from India who is currently based in Singapore. He has a soft spot for raptors and proposing a birding itinerary for him was easy. The two of us were scanning the grasslands of Chuping, realm of the raptors, at first light.


I have been neglecting the Black-shouldered Kite that is fairly numerous here because it is also numerous throughout country. It was my guest's enthusiasm that reminded me what a beautiful and elegant raptor it truly is.


It took the raptors slightly longer than usual today to show up and excite and entertain with their grace, agility and beauty. Well, better late than never and it was the Pied Harriers that got the ball rolling. A juvenile and a female were seen quartering the grasslands together. However, only the female floated close to our position and provided ample photographic opportunities.




The male, being the most sought after, appeared the last - naturally. Hunting low over a field of Kenaf (thanks, Hor Kee for the identity of the crop) in bloom, his striking plumage and graceful flight set against a meadow-like background was a breathtaking sight indeed.




He provided yet another performance that will forever to crave into my memory regardless of the result of my photographic attempts to capture the moment. The performance deserved a standing ovation which I would have given had I been alone. I just could not risk making my guest think that maybe I have been out in the field for too long.



On the adjacent field, a female Common Kestrel was just finishing up a meal on the ground level. Exactly like the last trip, the girl was in no mood for any close up encounters and this was the best image I could obtain.


The Short-toed Eagle is known to hover as it hunts for food. I have yet to witness that behaviour until today. At that distance, there was no point for me to even hope that the images will turn out good.


When it did come closer, the hunt was over and the snake eagle was on normal flight mode again.


In between all the jaw-dropping performances by the raptors, a confiding female Brown Shrike managed to distract our attention for a brief moment.


It would have also been a sin to ignore this Zitting Cisticola that alighted on wooden stake right in front of us. Although it is common at this locality, good views of it are certainly not. 


Chuping had one last surprise in store for us before we proceeded to the next birding location of the day. It is, after all, the week before Christmas. A pale medium-sized raptor was seen perched on a rubber tree sapling and as we were making our way out of the maze of access trails that cut through the grasslands. To my dismay, it took flight as soon as I had my camera on it. My pleas gradually turned to swears as the mystery raptor was adamant on getting as far away as possible in a straight line before disappearing behind a row of tall trees. I was devastated. A quick review on my LCD screen offered no help to the identity of the bird. Perhaps it was my emotional state at the time but my mind drew a blank. Later back home, Dave is quite sure it was a juvenile Oriental Honey Buzzard. And once again, this highly variable buzzard got the better of me.


It was afternoon when we entered the virgin jungle of Bukit Wang in Kedah. Home to numerous exquisite forest dwellers, this birding site has all the potential of making a birding excursion truly memorable. Apart from a pair of Black-and-yellow Broadbill that offered teasing glimpses, nothing much was about. Nothing that is except for a soaring Jerdon's Baza!


Kindly let me elaborate the reason behind the usage of the exclamation mark in my last sentence. The Jerdon's Baza is a small but striking raptor that is rarely recorded in Peninsular Malaysia. This is my second ever sighting and although it was miles away and under the harsh afternoon sun, this encounter alone was worth the journey to this locality.


Our third and final destination for the day was the paddy fields at Kubang Semang in mainland Penang where enjoyed the wonderful companionship of the flocks of Black-winged Stilts and not forgetting a handful of Ruffs and plenty of Grey-headed Lapwings. The day may have come to an end but I still have another morning excursion with Chandru the next day and I decided it would be time to introduce him to my feathered friends at Air Hitam Dalam in mainland Penang.


The Crested Serpent-eagle is a regular at this birding hotspot and my guest made his intention clear about this raptor when I informed him about it. A good and clear shot and his day will be done. Mission accomplished...


The Abbott's Babblers kept us from exploring other parts of the forest by being so confiding and obliging.


It is frustrating to photograph malkohas as they are always on the move and slightly hidden by the vegetation. You require luck more than anything else to obtain good shots of the Green-billed Malkoha. An obstructed, bad-lighted image is all you get sometimes.


There is one species that is remarkably easy to photograph at this locality and it is none other than the Mangrove Blue Flycatcher like this male resting among the undergrowth. He probably felt he was not doing the best he could and hopped up onto an open perch which was at eye level. That's a good boy...



This female Tickell's Blue Flycatcher has been frolicking with male Mangrove Blue Flycatchers for a few years. I am not sure if it is because of personal preference or the absence of male Tickell's Blue Flycatchers at this site. Even her own identity is in question as she does not fully fit the bill for a Tickell's Blue Flycatcher. But whatever it is, she is just as confiding as her companion. This complicated girl wraps things up for another memorable birding weekend. I would also like to take to this opportunity to wish all those celebrating a Merry Christmas.

A partridge on a pear tree

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All partridges are elusive, shy and have the uncanny ability to hide well especially from birders. The Chestnut-necklaced Partridge is one of the rarest species that occur here in Peninsular Malaysia. You are more likely to see Santa in his open sleigh cruising in the skies above. However, unexpected things do happen in birding and encountering a Chestnut-necklaced Partridge so close to the edge of a forest is certainly one of them. The call of this elusive game bird was the first sign of its presence during one of our birding excursions and at such close distance, it was deafening.




The partridge was on no pear tree but we were so adamant in obtaining better images that leeches, ticks, snakes and God knows what else momentarily do not exist on our forest floor. We tried to remain as silent and still as possible while praying for a better view but that was easier said than done. And to make matters worse, I was quivering with excitement. But Christmas came early this year and the partridge tolerated our presence and gradually showed us more of its true beauty. This is one of the best and most exciting resident lifers we ever had. Terrestrial forest birds are notoriously difficult to observe in the wild. It takes as much luck as it takes field craft to see one well. And today, we were probably the luckiest birders in the world.



The partridge foraged, preened, rested and was totally at ease during our observation. The soft chuckling notes it made while foraging melted my heart away. If I was not seated on the forest floor, my knees would have given way. Things got even more interesting when it started establishing its territory again with those prolonged bursts of loud and wavering calls. I found out from my wife the morning after I was whistling the partridge’s call, which is now embedded deep in my subconscious mind as well, in my sleep. Now, that is what I call a lasting impression.




By the way, we did end up with multiple leech and tick wounds after the encounter. But what are a few bites for a lifer that I am willing to risk a limb to get. We hauled ourselves out of the forest muddy, bloody and sweaty but with a wide grin and a distinct bounce in our stride. This encounter with the partridge was simply electrifying. Being so close to it evoked some feelings that I had not felt for a very long time. It was certainly an experience that is up there among the best. 

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